Reverse Appliqué With No Brakes: Scrap Packz

We have developed two kits to get customers started on Reverse appliqué.
One is Specimen Daisy, the cover project, and is very specific, the other, these Scrap Packs are more generic.

Designed to be flexible with fabric and threads suitable for both hand and machine work the packs include fusible web and foam core board and instructions to mount them just like my samples. They are a lovely little project - the customer just needs to add the design. A copy of the book is highly recommended for this!

Great for beginners, as a gift, as a quick intro to Reverse appliqué or even for a kids class.

Print off both the sections below to include in in the kits.

In choosing the top and secret layer fabrics please give a strong contrast. See the book for examples.

Below- examples of secret layer combos.

Reversing Scrap Packz

These packs are designed to get you started in ‘Reverse appliqué With No Brakez’ with the minimum of effort and a maximum amount of style.
The samples in the book were mounted this way, stretched over foam core board.

Piece the scrapz any way you desire.

Appliqué by hand or machine.

Fusible web is included if you would like to machine appliqué or hand appliqué with raw edges.

We hope you will be inspired by our simple, easy to execute designs.

Instructions and materials for mounting your sample are also included.

Layers in this kit:
top layer - 11” x 14”
fusible web - 9” x 12”
secret layer scraps - ten fabrics each 3” x 20”
batting -11” x 14”
foam core board - 8 3/4” x 12”
backing - 10” x 13”

Threads:
2 x embroidery floss
2 x sewing/quilting thread

Needle:
Bohin crewel, size 7

Mounted Quilts

I mounted many of the samples from ‘Reverse Applique With No Brakez’ over foam core board. They not only frame the stitching well but they are also easy to display - propped on a shelf or hung on a wall.

Requirements:
foam core board
backing
pins
scissors
needle & thread

How to enclose Foam Core Board:
1. Place the quilt in position covering the foam core board.

2. Ease the quilt to cover the edge of the foam. Place a pin in the centre of each edge to establish the centre position.

3. Continue pinning along each edge in turn, about 1 1/2” apart, holding the quilt flat but not tight. The foam board will warp if the quilt is stretched.

4. Turn the work over and trim the quilt back to 1”-1 1/2”, if needed.

5. Without removing the outer pins, pin in again at similar intervals, this time near the raw edges. You need to mitre the corners as you do this to keep the back neat. Slice the corners off an inch or so out from the foam. Fold the cut edge in, then fold the right and left sides in. It will be bulky and won’t necessarily give a crisp corner - having it looking good from the front is your aim.

6. Lay the backing to cover the back of the foam. Working one edge at a time, fold the raw edge under, carefully remove the pin holding the raw edge and place it now to hold the backing edge in place. I try to keep the backing at least a quarter inch in from the edge of the foam board edge.

7. Using an oversewing stitch to join the backing to the quilt. This is a bit of an awkward process! Undo the pins as you go. You may prefer to use glue - feel free to stick not stitch!

©Copyright Jan Mullen 2003